話後語，當Throttle body使用正規滾子軸承會有後遺症，畢竟在都是汽油和有些溫度的環境裡（除非裝一個軸封擋一下汽油的油氣過來），難免，一但軸承油脂乾了或是軸承壞了，那你馬上要換軸承（正規滾子軸承一挖就出來了很好換），否則過度使用還是會傷到Throttle body，當然過度使用金屬軸承襯套造成磨穿之後，也一樣蝴蝶銅軸磨到Throttle鋁製的本體～完蛋。
會不會磨到這個程度，車主還繼續騎，我還真的不知道。
Ticker Killer賣45英鎊含稅R1150R料號FUA00115
至今還未拆封的包裝袋標籤印刷寫料號L-1280ZZ-KOYO*2（*2就是說兩個，品牌是KOYO，外徑12mm、內徑8mm、ZZ是兩個軸承蓋保護裡面的牛油），旋轉部位用正規滾子軸承才正確(RUBBER CHICKEN RACING GARAGE販售店說的knowledge a roller bearing is designed to roll not rock back and forth, wearing a groove in the race and a flat on the roller)
BMW後傳動軸不能用傳統的軸承，反而要用金屬軸承，否則嚴重撞擊耗損在固定部位~此處是一條線因為是滾柱軸承(若是傳統的滾珠軸承耗損在固定點)，這都是經驗值(寶貴的馬後炮)~如下圖。
JL Paralever Bushing的販售商店
http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/bushings.html
We recommend the HONDA MOLY 60 PASTE for lubrication of the Paralever Bushing kit as well as many other spline lubrication needs on your BMW. You can conveniently order the Honda Lube here: HONDA MOLY 60 PASTE.
比較一下價錢，物價一直漲，不含運費～以前119美金、現在144美金，漲25美金，我亂買是對的。
千萬不要將火星塞拉出來用跳火檢查方式查看點火，因為一不小心火星塞未接地/接地不良(sparkplug end ungrounded)產生40000 Volt高壓電會把Coil絕緣破壞，open fire指斷路點火，例如:把火星塞接頭拔起來發動引擎也是未接地，
http://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14538&hilit=Spark+plug
Re: Boxer smooth as silk (as much as a lumpy twin can be)
by CycleRob » Fri Jun 13, 2008 12:50 am
Beemeridian,
I'm sure you did it correctly, but the wire pull to test procedure needs more details.
The primary coil on the single and dual sparks fires both sparkplugs at the same time, ~every TDC of both pistons. The wasted無效的 spark occurs on發生在the end of the exhaust stroke of the next cylinder. The spark travels thru one sparkplug to ground then from ground to the center electrode of the other sparkplug then back to the coil. Yes, one sparkplug fires backwards. If you pull off the secondary plugwire and do NOT ground it good with another sparkplug inserted then the other plug will not fire.
將火星塞拉出來用跳火檢查方式需要多說三句~
無論單火星塞或雙火星塞的車種，因為一車只有一個“primary coil”(雙火星塞的車種叫「main ignition coil」指下部的火星塞) 的關係，這種wasted spark系統(yen補充~此設計將點火零件減半~來自Wasted spark文章)對倆缸兩顆火星塞同時點火，所以每汽缸每一次行程到達TDC位置的時候，倆缸都會哥倆好的同時點火，另一個缸做那無用途的點火是在排完廢氣，行程到達TDC位置的時候同時跟著人家一起點火(據說是把未燃燒的廢氣混合一半量的汽油然後給燒掉，行程到達BDC位置噴汽油也是倆缸同步~這又是另外的故事~美國專利4,388,906)；火花的電路徑是先通過一個火星塞到達接地，再由這個接地到另一個火星塞的中心電極，然後再回到coil；是的~另一個火星塞當跟屁蟲在後面做無用途的點火，如果您從汽缸拉開secondary火星塞的接頭電纜(plugwire)，再接個火星塞(火星塞沒有鎖在汽缸上)到接頭電纜上，此火星塞的接地沒有做得很好 (例如穩穩地靠在汽缸頭)，另一個跟屁蟲火星塞不會點火(此時指另一個secondary火星塞；而雙火星塞的車種的上部的火星塞「direct ignition coil」一般叫「Sticks coil」=「筆型coil」是獨立的是由Motronic個別控制，然而「筆型coil」還是同時點火，也是這種wasted spark系統)
Beemeridian,接著後句說
Also, you must never open fire any sparkplug wire - - (sparkplug end ungrounded). Doing so forces the 40,000 Volt energy pulse to jump any internal insulation weaknesses or it's own terminal air gap. Once the path is burned in, the coil is most likely damaged. 所以呢~也就是說呢，絕對不要拿著plugwire看星星(未接地的迴路)，讓火星塞就這樣拿在手上~空打點火，電流無路可去~被迫產生/升高到40000 Volt的高壓電，硬要回老家，一旦40000 Volt高壓電找到回家的路徑，一鼓作氣突破障礙(破壞/打穿絕緣)，成功的回到「direct ignition coil」，這個瞬間，「direct ignition coil」就可以說是完蛋了，因為~哪個王八蛋都承受不了40000 Volt這樣的高壓電，被迫升高到40000 Volt的高壓電努力的通過絕緣層或是跳過火星塞接頭端子的間隙之空氣，沿路把較弱的絕緣層(破壞/打穿絕緣)，很傷 !
除了iABS (ABS III)的電路設計~爛到心裡口難開
再看iABS (ABS III)的電源接線方式~如下圖，與動不動iABS (ABS III)就被幹掉，Alternator directly to the iABS (ABS III)
cause of unstable high voltages or sinking currents will damage component IC's.
or Low-Voltage Fault etc.
Low Voltage Fault問題早就被發現了
ABS-II Low Voltage Fault Modification
Mick McKinnon with words from Brian Curry, IBMWR President(s) - bmwmick@comcast.net
來自http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/ABS-II_low_voltage_modification/index.shtml
來自http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=336410&page=4。
ADVrider論壇作者Bmwmick回答Has anyone done the ABS-II Low Voltage Fault Modification
All the R1100RT's and the R1100GS's used the same ABS-II Hydro Unit 34512331935
The R1150GS ABS-II used a different Hydro Unit 34512331637
I've never seen the low-voltage fault on R1150GS bikes with ABS-II. There has been some discussion on other forums that BMW made a change to how the voltage was tested on the later Hydro unit but I've never seen anything definitive.
The low voltage mod is applicable to the R1100RT, RS, GS (K1100LT, RS (after 07/1993)) as far as I know.
None of this applies to the Servo or 'whizzy' brakes.
Basically, it says to cut the green wire off pin #15 at the ABS connector and then connect a new wire to that wire off pin #15.
Then it says connect a new wire to the same green wire down by the
ABS relay position.
My question is, couldn't you just attach a new wire to the green wire stub up by the ABS connector and skip getting underneath the ABS relay??
Anyone?
ADVrider論壇作者Poolside說~
I think I see what you are saying.
Here's some info that may not be apparent. The circuit supplies 12V to the green ABS wire, coincident with the instrument panel alternator warning light switching off. The green ABS wire is the switched key-on trigger, or turn on lead, for the ABS control.
Turning on the ABS after the motor starts 'fixes' the ABS low battery issue by waiting until the motor is started before checking the battery voltage.
As for as where to collect a constant low amperage (500mA or so) 12V power for pin 30 of the relay, you are free to make that up anyway you like. Tap into any fused 12V source. _________________ 人族當有超越一切的東西 若有悖 法律改 民族讓 國家低頭
